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TOPO

EL CAPITAN

QUO VADIS, TOPO IN ENGLISH VI, 5.9 A4/A4+

Wersja do druku 253 KBAutor schematu: Jacek Czyż
Dodano: 15-03-2007

OPIS

Jacek Czyz solo, Oct.-Nov. 2002, 30 days on the wall in 3 pushes. US grade VI, 5.9+, A4 up to A4+ with some rivets. (He repeated earlier 13 lines on the wall - including 4th solo ascent of the Reticent Wall in fall 1999.)

DODATKOWE INFORMACJE

Remark (GG):
For better resolution click the link to pdf file in the upper-right corner of the image (file is not locked).

The English version of topo was published firstly in "The Mountaineer" 2002 (appeared about March 2003), Vol. 38, p. 29, the modest bulletin of The Chicago Mountaineering Club (try cmcwebsite.org).
Version of topo in Polish was first published in monthly "Góry" no. 3/2003 p. 14 (still not fully archived but maybe some day... so than try: goryonline.com ).

Photographs with the route and the neighbor lines depicted (so called "phototopo" or "fototopo") were published firstly in Polish monthly "Góry" 3/2003 p. 13 (7 lines), CMC's "The Mountaineer" Vol. 38 p. 26 (13 lines) and Polish quaternary "Taternik" 1-2/2003, p. 50 (15 lines).
Then, on more detailed photograph appeared in our club's magazine "A/ZERO" no. 5 (1/2003) p. 61 (with 15 lines but image was small and black&white).
Finally, this most accurate and 55 cm long "fototopo" indicating all 20 neighbour routes was prepared by Master Topo (GG and Jacek Czyz with much help from other climbers) as a part of the poster of B2 format (see it here) and published together with UKA club in February 2004 in bi-language version (English and Polish, also including better edited drawn topo). It was distributed non-commercially in more than 1 thousand copies as an insert in the bulletin BUKA no. 6.
The poster was exhibited in Vancouver in February 2004 during 7th International Mountain Film Festival (VIMFF) (photographs soon).

Printed major sources about the climb, in English:
- AAJ 2003 pp. 197-198 and 196 (photograph of Jacek Czyz during climb). See here, pp. 196-198. And here Yosemite 2002. The year in review written for the American Alpine Journal 2003.
- High, No. 245, April 2003, p. 5 (among editorial hot news: "Major new line on El Capitan").
- Climbing, No. 221, May 1, 2003, p. 22, short note.
(For further bibliography in Polish see the Polish version of topo.

The climb is present in the list of Yosemite climbs:
1. The full list was available in internet since January 2004 (see the SuperTopo.com forum by Ed Hartouni home.comcast.net/~e.hartouni/eph-climbing.html at the letter "Q" (as item 1591 in the version available on Sept 20th, 2008).
2. Here one can find (since 9th Sept 2008) near the same data but handy rearranged by Clint Cummins - for example sorted not by the time but by the regions (in 'guidebook order' along Yosemite Valley banks, from left to right if looking up the valley):
- The list of content: stanfords.edu/~clint/yos,
- and directly The list itself in excel format (.xls, 0.8 MB, total number the same but data records are shortened). On that version of the list the Quo Vadis route has no. 816. See also here for Clint's update to Don Reid guidebook.
[most links above are given thanks to Jacek]

From the series: "first-hand drawn topo"